External Bodywork

As the Club's Technical Officer I frequently get asked how to care for bodywork,  windows, and roof lights. There are two issues here. The first concerns the prevention of water ingress, the second appearance and minor damage repair.

Prevention of water ingress
Modern caravans (and to a lesser extent motorhomes) are a marvel in terms of the facilities they offer for the size and weight. The downside of this is that that they cannot be made as rigid as, for example, your towcar. The welded steel joints of the car are replaced by lightweight materials bonded by mastic. These lightweight materials inevitably flex during towing (and to a lesser extent during seasonal changes) so the integrity of the mastic is very important. New mastic will not retain its elasticity forever and eventually it will become brittle and fail. The factors governing its life include weather exposure, mastic type, degree of flexing and how well it has bonded to the joint surfaces. Prolonged hot weather is well known for inducing mastic failure, so do be mindful if taking your van to the continent for a few weeks in the summer.

An annual check with a professional damp meter is an absolute must. Most workshops will carry this out as part of the annual service. If this doesn't happen for any reason it's vitally important to get a thorough damp test done. The earlier any problems are found the lower the eventual repair bill will be. In-between tests it's worth checking around all seams for signs of the mastic drying out. Any signs of water penetration must be treated immediately before any lasting damage is done. Pay particular attention to areas such as:

If your van is under guarantee then simply report any concerns to your dealer who will arrange to carry out any remedial work. If you have an older van and fancy a bit of DIY then bear in mind that when resealing areas covered by a trim or awning rail, the trim or rail should be removed. If you do not do so any repair is likely to be short lived. Apply mastic sealant to any screw-holes before fixing and remove excess sealant when finished.

Examine window rubbers for any signs of damage or loss of elasticity. Pay particular attention to window rubbers which are not black. In sunlight these are prone to lose elasticity and stick to the plastic windows. Forcing the window open can cause the rubber to tear with chunks sticking like glue to the window as it opens. In the worst cases the rubbers will have to be renewed. In less severe cases the rubber can be treated with chalk dust or talcum powder to prevent it sticking.

Appearance

External surfaces
The single largest problems here are normally stains and deposits. Frequent washing is the best way to keep surfaces clean and sparkling. This helps prevent the build up of corrosive deposits and black streaks. Use a good quality car shampoo rather than household cleaners, as these can be a little harsh. Avoid using a high-pressure washer to clean your van as the force of the jet can damage seals and enter vents.

As a general rule you should never use solvents or abrasive compounds on caravan bodywork. However for really stubborn marks I sometimes use a car care product such as 'T Cut'. It is slightly abrasive and can remove paint so do be very careful if you use it! Never use cellulose thinners as they readily dissolve some paints and plastics. Those black streaks which often appear can be removed with Camco black streak remover which is available from most caravan accessory shops.

Once the surface is clean treat it to a coat (or two) of good quality car polish. This not only gives it a good shine but also helps to prevent dirt and deposits from sticking. It will make the van so much easier to clean next time round. Liquid polishes are generally less abrasive than paste types so try these first. Try not to get silicone based polishes on rubber seals and gaskets as they may be attacked by it.

GRP panels such as the front and rear panels of most caravans are not painted as such. Instead the moulds in which they are formed are first sprayed with a special coloured coating called a gel coat. The fibreglass is then laid on to it and the whole lot bonded with epoxy resin. When released from the mould the result is a strong panel with a smooth uniform surface needing no painting. In time surface crazing and minor cracking of the gel coat can sometimes happen. This is not detrimental to the panel's strength or water resistance but can look a little unsightly. A white-coloured car restoration polish can help by filling any tiny gaps with white polish. Larger gel coat cracks are best repaired using special gel coat repair kits available via caravan dealers, but ideally you need a little experience before using them.

Windows and clear roof-lights e.g. Heiki
As with most plastics the acrylic material from which windows are made is vulnerable to scratching. For this reason you need to be particularly careful when cleaning not to rub dirt in. Use a soft soapy cloth and plenty of water. Do not use a sponge on dirty windows. Polish with a soft dry cloth. Do not use any proprietary polishes. Minor scratches can be treated with a cream metal polish. If this fails you can try pre-treating them with toothpaste, which is a little more abrasive. More severe scratches can be treated with special cutting compounds such as Sika 305 but this is really one best left to the experts. Tar stains should be removed with a product such as Jove tar remover.

Other roof-lights and vents
After a year or two these can get very discoloured on the outside and difficult to clean. The best solution I have found is to use a domestic cream cleaner such as Jif or Ajax. As the vent covers are translucent rather than clear any very fine scratching that may result is not detrimental or really visible. Manually operated vents often trap dirt and debris between their inner and outer covers. Sometimes it is possible to free the covers completely by removing the 4 external stainless steel screws that hold them to the inner grab handles. If you decide to try this you do not break any joints that are filled with mastic. On re-assembly make sure the screws are properly located into their original holes and firmly tightened.

Minor Damage repair

Painted aluminium surfaces
For most Swift caravans this means the sides and the roof. Minor damage often shows in the form of dents. This is because the aluminium sheet has to be very thin to keep weight down. It is bonded to a polystyrene insulating sheet, which gives it support as well as insulation. Whilst this combination has many advantages it is very prone to denting when impacted. Minor dents can be filled and resprayed just like a car but it's not easy to make an invisible repair. If you don't feel totally confident about doing this type of work then leave it to good body shop. Larger areas of damage are normally dealt with by overlaying the damaged panel with a new one. This is definitely a job best left to a suitably experienced caravan body shop.

Glass reinforced plastic (GRP) surfaces
For most Swift caravans this means the front and rear end panels (some Corniches have GRP roofs). As mentioned above Gel coat cracks and chips are best repaired using a suitable gel coat repair kit. These ensure a good match and obviate the need for any subsequent painting. More serious damage may require sections to be reinforced from behind or even removed and rebuilt. This is specialist work so don't tackle it unless you know what you're doing.

Windows
Other than minor scratches, plastic windows are very difficult to repair. The normal procedure would be to purchase a replacement unit. Where units are obsolete it is sometimes possible to have new ones made up (or even your old one remoulded). If you are having difficulty sourcing a replacement window then see the Problem Page item Replacement Windows

Chassis and Running Gear

Chassis
All Swift caravans (and many motorhomes) made over the last 15 years or so sit on a galvanised steel chassis supplied by Alko Kober. When new the chassis has a shiny silver finish and over time this changes to a dull grey colour. This is perfectly natural and needs no treatment. Prolonged exposure to water can cause a new chassis to stain but the result, which may be unsightly, is not detrimental to the chassis' protection. Providing the chassis is not damaged it needs no further treatment so do not try to paint it. There are a couple of points to bear in mind though. The first is that any holes drilled since manufacture may rust as may the area where the 'Chris' number is stamped on the 'A' frame. The second is that Alko advise that the drilling of holes will invalidate the guarantee. This is not just because of the possibility of rusting but also because the type approval rating will be invalidated. If you need to fit a bracket for a blade type stabiliser then choose one that clamps on, rather than bolts through, the chassis. If you do find any rusting, treat it with a proprietary rust inhibitor.

Winding Mechanisms
Jockey wheel and corner steady winding threads should be kept clean and lightly greased to ensure ease of use. Avoid the excessive use of grease, as this will only act as a magnet for dirt and abrasive particles e.g. sand.

Brakes
Brake maintenance is beyond the scope of this article but in any event caravan braking systems produced since the Euro axle was introduced in 1994 are not really suitable for DIY maintenance. The hubs are held in place by 'one shot' nuts, which as the name implies, must be used only once. They are also tightened to a very high torque figure beyond the each of most DIY torque wrenches. The most important point here is to ensure an annual service by a suitably qualified person. Remember that new brakes 'bed in', so they may need adjusting inside the 12 month period. If the caravan 'thumps' the car during normal braking or if the handbrake is not fully effective get the brakes checked out. If you have lost one or more plastic wheel trims whilst towing then it's possible that the brakes have overheated, either because they were binding or because you've been on a long descent. Either way it's worth getting them checked out as the bearing grease may have run reducing lubrication and possibly contaminating the brakes.

Wheels, Tyres and Suspension
Wheel rims rarely give trouble unless they have been consistently overloaded or damaged. Damage can occur if the wheel is kerbed or if it is run with the bolts not properly tightened. It is therefore paramount to ensure that the bolts are tightened to Swift's recommended torque figure using a torque wrench. Check the bolts for tightness periodically during use. Kerb damage is normally very obvious but other forms of damage less so. Examine bolt holes for signs of enlargement or elongation caused by running with slack or unsuitable bolts. Look also for any fatigue cracks radiating from the holes that could indicate overload damage.

Believe it or not a caravan tyre can lead a more stressful life than those on your car. Although a caravan tyre will rarely wear out it can fail prematurely if care is not taken. As a general rule caravan tyres, especially those on single axle caravans, operate nearer to their rated limits than those on cars. This is one reason why you should never overload your van. It is also why tyre pressures are so important. If too low the sidewalls will be subject to excessive flexing and heating, which may result in a blow-out. If too high the tyre stresses will be increased and premature failure may also result. Tyre pressures should be checked before every outing when the tyres are cool.

Because of the way many caravans are used the tyres can get loaded in one position for excessive periods. This can impose excessive stresses on sidewalls and lead to failure. The prime example of this is the chap who only uses his caravan once a year for a holiday. The rest of the time it never moves. To make matters worse he uses the caravan as general storage shed for heavy items when at home. The tyres are exposed to all the elements for a whole year, but with zero rotation. Then he hitches up and hurtles down the motorway at 60+ mph.....................!

As a general precaution tyres should be regularly examined for any signs of damage, especially sidewall damage, which can cause premature failures and blowouts. The golden rule is that if any sidewall damage whatsoever is found the tyre must be scrapped.

As a matter of personal preference I always like to have my caravan wheels balanced. Whilst it is not essential I believe the reduced levels of vibration that result are beneficial to the tyres, the suspension, and the caravan as a whole.

During long periods of inactivity the tyres should be rotated a quarter turn or so every few weeks such that the tyre slowly rotates. Alternatively you can take the weight off them using axle stands. Better still remove them altogether (if your insurance allows) and store them in a cool dry pace away from sunlight.

Taking the weight of the wheels has another advantage. It helps to prolong the life of the caravan's suspension by allowing the suspension rubbers within the axle tubes to return to their natural shape.

I am sometimes asked about the fitment of shock absorbers to modern caravans. Whilst there is provision to fit them they are only really needed for towing in countries with really poor road surfaces. The sort of places that spring to mind include some parts of Ireland and the former Eastern block countries.

Internal Fixtures and Fittings

Upholstery
Keep upholstery clean and looking good by regular vacuuming to remove dirt, sand and other debris. If necessary you can use a good quality upholstery cleaner to deal with any marks.

Covering materials can wear out in time but quite often they will fade or become discoloured first. Protection from sunlight is best achieved by covering with an old blanket when not in use. I know some caravanners who always store their van with the roller blinds closed. The problem with this is that the blind springs can become weak and thieves tend to think that something interesting is probably being hidden from view.

During the winter months lift all the upholstery and stand it on end to give it a good airing. If possible bring it inside to a warm dry place.

Curtains and Pelmets
Whilst curtains can be washed it is normally much safer to have them dry-cleaned. Velvet curtains, for example, tend to shrink at a different rate from their lining materials when washed. Also washing can affect any fire retardant treatment the curtain material has had. Covered pelmets can be cleaned by vacuuming or if, stained, by gently sponging with damp cloth.

Carpets
Carpets need protection if they are going to keep their looks. You can buy plastic runners designed for the purpose but they will not dry wet feet or let the carpet breathe. A better option perhaps is the type of stout carpet runner sold by some caravan accessory shops. When dirty you can clean them outside with soapy water and a brush, finishing off with a hosepipe. Another good choice is cotton mats or rugs. They are extremely absorbent and can be washed in the washing machine when necessary.

Sinks Showers and Loos

The thermoplastics from which many of these components are made are quite tough, but still need treating with care. When filling with water always put cold in first to reduce the thermal loading. Failure to follow this advice may result in cracks developing and you may find they're not covered by any guarantees which may be in force. Swift advise that you should never use any cleaning materials but instead wipe dry after each use. If the surfaces do become marked try cleaning with a little lemon juice. It can be quite effective and will do no harm. As an alternative Thetford make a very good non-abrasive bathroom cleaner which is widely available from caravan accessory shops. The enamelled metal sinks now fitted in many kitchens are hardwearing but can still be damaged by inappropriate care. The main thing to avoid is impact damage, which can chip or score the enamel; and the use of some of the harsher abrasive cleaning materials, which may scratch it.

Side Walls and Roof Linings
These are designed to be cleaned with a damp cloth. A very mild detergent may be used if necessary. Wipe dry afterwards.

Furniture
This too can be cleaned with a damp cloth. Swift say you may apply a wax furniture polish but my personal preference is not to. Instead I use the old-fashioned method of having a little vinegar in the damp cloth. Polish dry with a soft duster immediately afterwards.